Directions for Operating Cook Stoves and Ranges


To secure good operation in cook stoves and ranges, see:
1st That the flue-stopper is in place.
2nd That the chimney is clear and has a good draft at the pip hole. Many chimneys are made too low and
draw better when a "smoke-stack" is put on them.
3rd that the pipe fits closely on the stove and in the chimney. No air should enter the flue outside of the
pipe.
4th That the pipe does not go too far into the chimney.
5th That no ashes from the chimney gets into the end of the pipe.
6th That there are no pipe holes open into the chimney anywhere, either above or below, and that there is
no unused stove on this chimney anywhere in the house, with the drafte-slide open leading into the same
chimney.
7th Avoid having the pipe telesope at the elbow.
If you have all of these paerts properly adjusted and well arranges, op the direct-draft damper and see if
you can get a good fire in the stove, together with a strong draft. If the fire will not burn well, then the
trouble is not in the stove but above it. If the fire burns well on the above draft, close the oven damper; then
if it will not heat the oven and bake well, please examine the flues and dampers, and see:
1st That all the flues are open and clear, so that the smoke can freely pass through them. In cleaning flues,
many do not clean all the flues, and frequently pus soot and ashes into the back corners, and in that way
stop them up.
2nd Examine all the dampers in the flues and see that they open and closed tightly, and do not aget out of
place.
3rd Be sure that you know how the dampers operate, because they may be open when you think they are
closed. If you are trying a stove without a hot water resevoir in good order as heretofore described, it can
not possibly fail in operation if yo close the direct-draft damper and throw all the heat around the oven.
Time should be given to get the oven hot before trying to bake. If you have a stove with a reservoir, be sure
that the damper is closed, to force the heat under the reservoir, (if there is on in the stove), so that all of the
heat must go aroung the oven. Many reservoir stoves have two dampers, and ith that case both should be
closed. We have known many poeple who have tried to use such stoves with the damper under the reservoir
open, when they thought it was closed. On that account the oven heated too slowly, but worked fast enough
when they closed the damper.
We have found that in many cases best results in baking can be secured by pushing in the check slide in the
pipe collar to a point where it will hold the heat in the range without restraining the draft which can be kept
active by opening the draft slide in the ash pit door. It is possible that the draft of the chimney is so strong
as to carry the heat so rapidly around the oven, that it is not absorbed by the plates, and the oven fails to
heat sufficiently from that cause. A damper in the pipe will relieve this. We have found in some drafts that
perfectly level and about one inch deep. In some cases where the chimney runs below the pipe inlet, we
find that it is necessary to stop off the flue a short distance below the inlet. This feature is thought so much
of, that many architects and builders now construct chimneys with a sliding damper to close off the flues
just below the inlet of the cooking stove or range, when the flue below is not in use.
Improtant. Care must be taken to see that the cast iron coal or wood front, or coal front, or water front,
whichever is used, is in its proper place with the top edge fitting tightly against the front end of the range.
All drafts must go below edges of these fronts or through the fire to give right results.
WOOD & BISHOP CO.
Bangor, Maine